Silk Road Nights

Preface: A Gateway to the World

Chapter 1: Setting Sail into the Unknown

1. Elyssa Vagabunda: Born to Travel
2. Life in the UAE
3. Crossing Borders
4. Cultural Connections
5. But You’re My Country!
6. Desert Escapades in Oman
7. And So, the Story Goes… Exploring Lost Worlds and Timeless Landscapes

Chapter 2: Magan: Land of Trade and Treasure

1. The Fragrance of History: Myrrh and Frankincense – the Queen of Sheba’s Legacy
2. Navigating Challenges: Safety and Strategy
3. Eid Mubarak!
4. Khareef and the Tomb of Iyob
5. The Resort Hotels and Ramadan
6. A Fiancé’s Journey Through the Seas
7. Wildlife Encounters in the Desert
8. Closure and New Beginnings

Chapter 3: To the Gates of Persepolis

1. Departure from Dubai
2. Aboard the Persian Gulf Ferry
3. Arrival in Bandar Abbas
4. Journey to Shiraz
5. The Threshold of Persepolis

Chapter 4: Through the Halls of the Achaemenid Shahs

1. Setting Out for Persepolis
2. History of Cyrus the Great and Persepolis
3. Exploring the Ruins and Admiring Persian Architecture
4. Discovering a School Within the Ruins
5. Women and Society in Achaemenid Persia
6. Hiking to the Tombs of Kuh-e Rahmat
7. Visiting the Tomb of Darius I
8. Emotional Reflections During the Sound and Light Programme
9. Spending Time with Friends

Chapter 5: Echoes of Esfahan

1. Echoes of Esfahan
2. A Journey Through Time
3. Cultural Exchange and Friendship
4. A Bus Ride of Opinions

Chapter 6: Tehran and Beyond

1. First Impressions of Tehran
2. Cultural Immersion and the Scarf Police
3. Exploring Tehran’s History and Museums
4. Visa Adventures and New Friendships
5. The “Car Disco” and Social Dynamics

Chapter 7: The Road to Ararat – A Bus, A Border, and A Celebration

1. Departure from Tehran
2. The Shifting Landscapes of Persia
3. Through the Zagros Mountains
4. A Hidden Celebration
5. Crossing the Border at Mount Ararat
6. A Celebration Beneath Mount Ararat

Chapter 8: Tea, Roman Ruins, and Friendship on the Black Sea

1. A Farewell at the Crossroads
2. A Change in Architecture and Atmosphere
3. The Journey to Trabzon
4. A Local Invitation
5. Reflections by the Black Sea
6. Tea and Hospitality in Trabzon
7. Discovering the Roman City
8. Exploring Ancient Ruins
9. The Monastery in the Cliffs
10. Dinner by the Creek
11. Setting Out for Colchis

Chapter 9: Land of the Golden Fleece

1. Visa Planning and Unexpected Encounters
2. A Country in Crisis
3. Choosing a New Route
4. Border Crossings and Airport Experiences
5. Making Friends at the Excavation
6. The Oral Traditions of Colchis
7. The Destruction of the Site
8. Excavating the Pontic-Era Houses
9. Exploring the Ancient Site
10. The Temple of Hecate
11. The Escape Tunnel
12. Life at the Excavation Site
13. A Difficult Dinner
14. Target Practice
15. Roman Influence in China
16. A Greek Arrival
17. A Georgian Birthday Celebration
18. A Roman Fortress on the Black Sea
19. A Visit to the Black Sea
20. Leaving Georgia
21. Georgia’s Historical Context
22. A Bathhouse in Tbilisi

Chapter 10: A Path Through Fire and Water

1. Arrival in Baku
2. Exploring Baku’s Historical Sites
3. Azerbaijan and Its Turkic Roots
4. The Ferry to Kazakhstan and the Electrical Shock Incident
5. An Unexpected Invitation
6. Boarding the Ferry to Kazakhstan

Chapter 11: Shadows on the Steppe

1. Arrival in Atyrau
2. A Warning About Kazakhstan
3. Observations on Kazakh People
4. The Steppes and Their History
5. The Long Journey Across the Steppes
6. A Risky Ride
7. Fear in the Car
8. At the Police Station
9. Contacting the Consulate
10. The Police Escort
11. Retrieving My Bag
12. A Nervous Walk Through the Station
13. Writing the Statement
14. The Consulate
15. A New Offer
16. Exploring Almaty
17. Ancient Artefacts
18. Contact from the British Embassy
19. Assistance for Commonwealth Citizens
20. Informing Lonely Planet
21. Departure to Urumqi

Chapter 12: Across the Sands: From Ruins to the Southwest

1. Crossing from Kazakhstan to China
2. The Worst Toilet I Had Ever Seen
3. Another Stop—Another Toilet Disaster
4. Switching to the Chinese Bus
5. Clean Bunks vs. General Hygiene in China
6. Excitement for the Chinese Bus
7. A Last Attempt at an ATM in Almaty
8. Crossing the Chinese Border—A Delayed Entry
9. A Kind Apology
10. Arrival in Urumqi—The Silk Road City
11. The Staring Culture in China
12. Reuniting with My Fiancé in China
13. Finally—Accessing Funds Again!
14. Thrilled to Be Back in China
15. Uighur Culture and Islamic Influence
16. Ancient History of the Uighurs
17. Music of Northwest China
18. Heading to Turpan
19. Train Boarding Culture—A Frenzied Rush
20. Exploring Turpan and Jiaohe
21. Jiaohe—An Ancient Silk Road City
22. The Ride Through the Gobi Desert
23. Approaching Jiaohe—A Lost City in the Desert
24. Inside the City—Signs of an Advanced Civilisation
25. The Strange Warning Sign
26. Roman Traders and the Silk Road Connection
27. Getting the Train Across the Gobi Desert
28. China’s Train Classes—A Survival Trick
29. The "Tent" Strategy for Sleeping
30. A Packed Train—No Tricks This Time
31. Soft Sleepers—A Pricey Alternative
32. A Travel Deal with a Chongqing Student
33. Navigating a Packed Train
34. The Pushing Culture in China
35. Getting Caught by the Train Attendant
36. Crossing the Gobi Desert
37. A Stunning Sight from the Train Window
38. The Ancient vs. The Beijing Great Wall
39. A Bit About Mulan
40. The Ultimate Solution to Failing Exams—Start Your Own Kingdom!
41. Zhang Jue—The Scholar Who Chose War Over Exams
42. Moral of the Story?
43. A Japanese Traveller and Chinese Hospitality
44. An Anecdote About Emotions in China and Trains
45. Music, Karaoke, and a Sudden Fight
46. An Unexpected Apology at a Train Station
47. Ancient Cave-dwelling Villages
48. Finally—Arriving in Chongqing
49. For Future Reading

Postscript – The Journey Continues

1. What’s Next?
2. Stay Tuned!