I finally managed to start the next day with breakfast, which in this hotel did not differ much from other meals. There was a variety of dishes available, such as rice, meat, fish, and vegetables. I could also order an omelette or fried eggs that the cook prepared in front of the guests. Unfortunately, the only coffee available was instant, and of poor quality – just like almost everywhere else here. I hadn't had real coffee in three days, and I desperately needed to replenish my caffeine levels. Gradually, I was adjusting to the local time, and I decided to spend the day lazing on the beach.
To reach the beach, I took a public route that passed through narrow streets filled with small, poorly-built houses and the occasional elegant hotel fences.
The beach looked different during the day compared to the previous night. There were some people around, but it wasn't crowded. The sun was scorching, though it was still quite early. I settled down near a few rustic bars, where I found a group of Russians. It seemed like there were lots of them here, as Russian was spoken everywhere. Menus were written in English, Russian, and Chinese. Every few dozen meters along the beach, there were huge wooden beds with canopies under the shade of trees. Massage services were offered by ladies laying or half-sitting on the beds, and the prices were reasonable. I chose an older, petite Thai woman who seemed experienced, and I lay down on a comfortable, sun-heated mattress. She began by pouring oil on my back, followed by a gentle massage that lasted for half an hour. In the end, she even walked a bit down my spine, and I felt much more relaxed and energized. I managed to say thank you in Thai – 'Kap khun krap' – feeling a bit embarrassed as I did the customary bow. She smiled happily and responded with a bow. It looked like she had understood me, so my accent wasn't too bad.
I lay down on my towel on the beach, but only for a short while, as it was too hot. I cooled off in the sea, which was as warm as a bathtub. The sea was clear and emerald green, without the slightest wave. A light, pleasant, warm wind blew.
The blue, square signs telling me which way to run in the event of a tsunami bothered me a bit, but I quickly stopped paying attention to them. I had read somewhere that a new warning system had been introduced and that there would be plenty of time to evacuate if something happened.
To ease my mind, I discussed this with an old, wrinkled Thai woman who worked at the nearest bar. She chuckled and pointed to the flip-flops on her feet.
She remembered the previous tsunami, which had left her with nothing but her life and a pair of flip-flops. Despite being forced to start over, she managed to maintain a sense of optimism.
That was why the bars were so crudely constructed from a few planks and a tarpaulin, as any damage done to them would be minor and inexpensive.
In the afternoon, I ate a light meal in an open-air restaurant. Just behind a tree line was a whole strip of such places, offering dishes to please every taste, from pizzas and burgers to local fare. I opted for the same safe meal – chicken in curry sauce – as I don't like the “bugs” – shrimps, squid, and octopus. The Thai curry sauce was as always a delicious combination of spicy and sweet.
In the evening, after a short nap and shower at the hotel, I checked Google Maps to plan my next adventures. This time, I made sure that where I wanted to go, it would be open late and “hot and muggy”.
There were a few places to sit and have a good time in the area, but you had to walk a bit to get there. Along the way, I sometimes encountered unlit side streets populated by grey dogs that were neither friendly nor aggressive. At times, the smell of a rubbish truck filled the air, intensifying the stench of decomposing rubbish in the hot temperatures.
All of a sudden, a large glowing sign for “Up to You Bar and Restaurant” appeared around one of the bends. Judging from the details on the signboard, it was clear that one could enjoy both drinks and female company in this establishment.
As is typical of Thailand, the place was small and hastily constructed, with a makeshift roof and a few tables and a square buffet. It gave the impression that it could be quickly rolled up and moved to a different location at any time.
There were some nice girls behind the bar, but not many visitors. A couple was playing pool and a few locals sat in a corner smoking cigarettes. I ordered a glass of red wine and listened to the boring crap music one of the bartenders was serving up from YouTube.
A few people came to the pool table for a while, then they all left, and I was left alone in the entire “Club”. I felt a little embarrassed as the full attention of all the girls in the place turned toward me. They wandered around somehow and smiled mysteriously. I asked the girl behind the bar to let me choose the music since I was the only customer there. Their boring shite was unbearable. So, I used a mouse from the bar laptop and played them some Michael Bublé songs. The girls were delighted.
I am not sure, as I have little experience with these matters, but it seemed to me that the local guys sitting in the far corner were indulging in some herb! Its characteristic smell could be sensed even from my side of the bar. The barmaid, while serving me another glass of wine, looked at me quite strangely. What the hell was this all about? This was starting to look like some kind of erotic blackmail. I held on, or at least I hadn't had enough wine to give up yet.
After some time, the local youth suddenly jumped out of their corner and started some strange rituals. They arranged flowers, a plate of sweets and a few glasses of alcohol in front of a small Buddha statue which stood at the entrance to the bar.
A small, thin man (Italian looking) sat next to me with a Thai girl hanging off him. After a short conversation, I learned that he was a Swiss citizen (from the Swiss Italian canton!) and had been living in Phuket for several months. I asked him if he knew what the young people at the Buddha statue were up to, as they had now been joined by the girls from the bar. I noticed that having arranged flowers, sweets and drinks, they themselves were drinking heavily.
‘The official Buddhist public holiday begins at midnight’, explained my companion. ‘It is thereafter forbidden to serve alcohol, which is why they are drinking so much before the time is up. Cheers!’ He smiled and raised his glass of wine. I looked at my phone in panic. Twenty minutes left. I ordered a double wine, just in time as the young bartender picked up the mouse and started closing the business.
From under the statuette, you could hear louder and louder laughs and faster and faster toasts – they were drinking whiskey. One of the girls came up to me and asked why I didn't like them. There was no malice, just some sadness in her voice.
‘But I like you!’ I defended myself, a bit surprised by this question.
‘And which of us do you like the most?’ The Thai girl hanging off the Swiss started giggling.
‘I like you all’, I answered truthfully, because they were all young, slim and well-groomed. Now they were all giggling in the practically empty bar.
The Swiss walked away with his escort, the barmaid turned off the cash register and the colorful lights above the bar. The fun was over for tonight.
I hadn't eaten anything in twelve hours, and my stomach began to talk to me. I asked the girls where I could eat at this time of night. It turned out that because of the Buddhist holiday, everything would be closed, but I could try the “Burger King” as they always stay open. You were not allowed to buy alcohol anywhere, because the police drove around the area and checked that the ban was respected.
Well, it would have to be the “Burger King” again.
I headed in a familiar direction towards the intersection near my hotel. Dark alleys again, dogs running and barking like crazy. It was a good thing they didn't bite.
Passing “Thailicious” – specialists in fish like old wellington boots – I could see that “Evil Eye” had just finished her work and was mounting her motorbike. Still dressed in the company apron and a cap, she was hanging something on the handlebars.
‘Hello’, she greeted me like an old friend. ‘You didn't come back to us again. Why?’
‘Oh, you know, I've been at the beach since morning.’ I blushed, but you couldn't see it in the dark, and I was a little tanned already!
‘Do you know where I can get something to eat in this area? I'm starving.’ I asked.
‘No, not here anyway, but I can show you a place. It's definitely open there.’
‘But you are tired after work ...’
‘No, I'm not tired. Wait here a minute and I'll just change my clothes.’
She ran quickly across the street, pulling off her apron and cap. It was nice that after a day of standing on her feet at work, she wanted to look after a somewhat random tourist.
In a moment, I had the opportunity to ride a moped in Thailand for the second time.
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